2022 Pouilly-Fume, Buisson Renard, Domaine Didier Dagueneau

I'm a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet its sense of lightness. There's an appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and length and provides precision. Its maker, Jean-Philippe Agisson, believes 8-10 months in stainless steel after being in barrel plus filtration gives the wine this tightening belt. ~ (95) Rebecca Gibb, Vinous 8-1-2024